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Race Replicas is a complete service house with thousands of quality HO
slot car bodies and parts in stock!
- Frequently Asked Questions
replaced the noisy vibrator cars in 1963 with the new and improved "Thunderjets"
or T-jets. Their improved performance was a hit and kids fell in love with
them. They had everything a kid could want with speed and style along with
an array of track layouts and pieces that made slot cars a toy almost every
boy just had to have. They came with chrome plated bumpers and all plastic
highly detailed bodies in every body style you could think of. From trucks
to muscle cars to indy cars to sedans to even motorcycles, the T-jet stayed
with us thru the '60s up for about 10 years until the '70s when AFX was
introduced. The T-jet car was produced from 1963 to 1972 when AFX cars
replaced it .
vibrator bodies fit onto Thunderjet chassis?
Thunderjet chassis has the same mounting hole center spacing as a vibrator
chassis but the front body mounting post will be short and a spacer will
be necessary as well the rear is usually too long. Also a vibrator chassis
was not as tall in the motor area and was smaller so most vibrator bodies
will have interference on the T-jet gear plate. I don't recommend installing
T-jet chassis on vibes but for just a few bodies and these bodies will
require some post modification and narrowing the rear rear chassis hubs
to bring the tires closer to the chasssis. The few that can fit a T-jet
chassis with modifications are: '58 T-bird, Mercedes, '62 pickup, Jaguar,
Galaxies too but they will have a "rake". Please don't try a '60
Corvette, I think it looks hideous with a T-jet chassis under it.
T-jet chassis still available today in New Old Stock (NOS)?
they are available complete with tires and wheels! Hundreds of thousands
of these chassis were made, so most all are still plentiful. These include:
The standard (RRR #394) with small chrome wheels and tires fits most "car
models"; The Tall (RRR #397) with big chrome 4-dimple wheels and tires
was found on Hot Rods, Dune Buggies, and trucks; The Slim-line (RRR #393
limited offering) was made for the Indys and '32 Pickup; The TUFF-ONES
(now discontinued) had independent front wheels with extra wide lo-profile
rear wheels and tires, a "hotter" arm along with silver brushes and shoes
for better electrical flow, larger pinion gear with a short shouldered
crown gear, and stronger magnets.
is a slim-line chassis?
introduced 2 new indy car bodies that were the Repco Brabham and the McLaren
BRM. These cars were sleek and slim so a new chassis was developed that
had a smaller than normal armature and brushes. This chassis was also used
on the '32 pickup. The armature is about 2/3rds the size of a regular T-jet
and the brushes were also made smaller to fit the package. The magnets
for this car are special too as they have locator holes in the back of
these small magnets. Wheels were the chromed 4-dimple wheels. Pickup shoes
and back gears were the same as regular T-jet. (RRR #393 limited offering)
all bodies fit any chassis?
Some earlier bodies such as the Galaxie, Falcon, Fairlane, '63 T-bird and
some others, have a body line that partially covers the tire, so the wide
rear wheels of the Tuff-Ones will not clear the body. The RRR #394 chassis
is required on: Galaxie, Falcon, Fairlane, '63 T-bird, Corvette, Jaguar,
Riviera, Lincoln, Green Hornet, Torino, GTO and Snowmobile. With some spacers
on the rear mounting post between the chassis, some of the other cars will
accomodate the wide tires of the Tuff-Ones chassis.
are there "cut wheel wells" on my T-jets?
the skinny and often hard tires of the T-jet didn't always provide the
best traction, so after-market tires were offered for better traction and
handling. To make the now large after-market tires and wheels fit the car,
the body had to be modified, this usually involved enlarging the wheel
openings. Most kids prefered the quick fix with the "hot knife" or Dad's
pocket knife, so usually the "hacked" appearance was the result.
The funny part was the 1960's Model Motoring hop-up kits actually had drawings
in their instruction sheets, showing us how to "cut them" the wheel wells
with a knife!
driver is supposed to go with each particular car?
T-jets had the same driver. This driver is the classic Aurora driver, with
no hat, no moustache, and a usually black painted "bowl haircut" (RRR #1350).
The color of the arms/wheel were usually not the same as the seats or the
body. Note, some early production cars of the 63 T-bird and Galaxie had
a Vibrator moustached driver with driving cap (RRR #1530)
doesn't my car run?
could be several reasons, but first check these:
shoes - Many times a simple replaced pickup shoe will make the fix
as it will be worn with a "groove" in it causing the rails to not make
power contact. Check the car on a test power supply by testing the chassis
at the rivets on the bottom. Manually turn the armature, if the car runs
now, you need to clean the pickup shoes or replace it. Sometimes, in an
emergency, if the groove is offset to one side, simply swapping it to the
other side will make a new "groove-spot" to the unused offset portion to
get you thru the race.
- Most often if a car doesn't seem to want to run, it is usually the magnets
are like poles. Remove the magnets and face each other. If they snap together
opposing each other, like "( )", they are correct and you will need to
check the brushes. If the magnets pivot and "spoon" together, like "((",
you need to replace one magnet.
- Check for both brushes and that they are in place in their holes. Sometimes
a brush may become dislodged from its hole in the chassis. But, most often
the brushes simply need to have some tension on the brush tension springs
(metal strips on the bottom-side of chassis with V that contacts brush).
To renew tension, if overbent - remove brushes and press tension spring
flat again, then push V section farther down inside the brush hole, replace
brushes. If springs are still "up" too far, take an exacto knife at he
point closest to the rivet and bend spring up, then push with finger flat
again. If not enough tension - push V section on the brushes and push toward
respective rivet. This will cause the spring to bend and give more downforce
on the brush. Warning! Sometimes too much pressure will slow the motor
car "squeals" and runs slow down the track, why?
car's chassis motor needs oil. See below for places to oil you chassis.
should I oil my T-jets?
like to recommend and use the "5-spot" method, note these are with small
drops of oil. 1st: On the bottom of the chassis in the arm center hole.
2nd: Between the arm top gear and the gearplate. Let the oil wick underneath
the gear. 3rd: Between the shoulder of the crown gear (gear on rear axle)
and the chassis - Not on wheel hub side. 4th: On the rear axle on the opposite
side of the chassis - again, not on the wheel hub side. 5th: On the underside
of the top gearplate where the pinion gear and shaft come thru - let oil
wick onto shaft between gear and plate.
the Vibe trucks the same cab section as the T-jets?
The vibes have a opening on the top side and the mounting posts are shorter
for the smaller vibe motor. Note also, the Mack stake truck bed has a shorter
rear dual axle holder that the t-jets too.
there any books with photos of Thunderjets?
The Aurora HO SLOT CAR IDENTIFICATION and PRICE GUIDE by
John A. Clark has great color photos of all the T-jet and is great for
identifying the Aurora cars.
this helps with your Aurora Thunderjet questions and if you need to find
parts for restoring your cars, see Road Race Replicas for all your needs.
you have HO slotcars For Sale? Email me, I'm always looking!
you like a Catalog List of ALL available PARTS?
Remember, all reproduction parts are
here in the USA
NW LUTES Rd.
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The above information is believed to be
accurate, true and based on the opinions and experiences of Phil Pignon.
It is for public viewing and not to be used in any publications, printed
or otherwise without the written consent of Phil Pignon or Road Race Replicas
(C) Copyright 2012, Road Race Replicas